February 28, 2009

Whole Roasted Daurade a la Provencale

Daurade Roti at Cafe du Soleil - Photo by Philippe Touitou

Daurade Roti at Cafe du Soleil - Photo by Philippe Touitou

 

I love roasting fish whole. The preparation is simple and the results outweigh the minimal effort. You just need to have a willing audience – willing to stare their dinner in the eye, and willing to tackle the bones as they eat.

It’s relatively easy to find whole fish at most fish markets. Ask them to scale the fish for you, trim the fins and tail, and remove the gills. This dish will work well with many kinds of fish. Pictured is a Daurade (Sea Bream) imported from the Mediterranean. These fish have become more common in recent years with the rise in aquaculture. They are farm raised in Greece and shipped here quickly so they are usually very reliably fresh. Another excellent imported farm-raised fish is the Branzino which is a Mediterranean Sea Bass.

Other fish to try are Red Snapper, Black Sea Bass, Farm-Raised Striped Bass, and Domestic Sea Bream, also known as Porgies.

The preparation is the same for all. Season the fish inside and out with salt and pepper, and a light drizzle of Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Stuff the cavity with fresh or dried herbs (I like thyme and fresh bay leaves if you can find them) and slices of lemon and tomato. Place on an oiled baking sheet or baking dish, and roast in the oven at 400F for about 10 to 15 minutes.

The best way to tell if it’s done is an old trick I learned in restaurants over the years – you pull on the finbone closest to the head of the fish. You should just barely be able to pull it away from the flesh. This makes alot of sense since if you can’t pull it away it means the flesh is still raw at that point (try pulling a bone from a raw fish and you’ll see what I mean), and if you can pull it away too easily it means the resistance is gone and it’s overcooked.

Drizzle the fish with some more EVOO and you’re ready to serve. You don’t really need a sauce with this, but here are a couple suggestions:

When you remove the fish from the oven and transfer it to your serving dish, pour a little white or rose wine into the baking dish, place it on a burner, and scrape up any bits that may have stuck to the dish while letting the wine reduce a little. Add a knob of butter if desired and serve on the side or pour over the fish.

Alternately you could prepare a light beurre blanc (see my beurre blanc post of March 15, 2008 for a recipe) and flavor it with capers and lemon, or whatever else strikes your fancy.

Also in the photo you can see a lovely row of baked Provencale Vegetables on the platter with the Daurade. This makes an excellent accompaniment. Rather than give an exact recipe I’ll just describe how they’re made:

Saute some sliced onions and red peppers in olive oil, season with salt and pepper and chopped garlic to tatse, and spread over the bottom of a baking dish. Slice zucchini, yellow squash, tomato, and eggplant into uniform slices, then layer (alternating the colors) on top of the pepper onion mixture. Season the whole with salt and pepper, drizzle generously with EVOO, and add some chopped fresh thyme. Cover with foil, and bake at 350F for about 20 to 30 minutes, until the vegetables are soft. Uncover the foil and bake another 10 minutes or so until they are slightly browned on top.

 

I hope you’ll try these dishes – and if you do, I hope you enjoy them. Comments and feedback are always welcome.

Bon Appetit!

3 Comments

Filed under Fish and Seafood, French Regional Specialties, Roasted Whole Fish

Tagged as , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

January 28, 2009

Valrhona Cocoa Vin

Cocoa Vin at Cafe du Soleil, Photo by Philippe Touitou

Cocoa Vin at Cafe du Soleil, Photo by Philippe Touitou

Just before opening Cafe du Soleil I was being treated by a physical therapist for a pulled muscle. We were talking about food as she stretched me and electrocuted me (those of you have gone through PT will know what I mean). She didn’t know much about French food and she asked me if a “coq au vin” was a kind of  dessert made with cocoa. I laughed and told her that even though the words are pronounced alike, the “coq” was in fact a chicken dish (or more accurately rooster, but noone serves rooster here). But she got me thinking about the play on words and I decided to create a chocolate dessert using wine. Thus was born my “Valrhona Cocoa Vin”.
At Cafe du Soleil we describe the “Valrhona Cocoa Vin” as a Warm Flourless Chocolate Souffle Cake. The technique I use is to bake it halfway in a water bath, then cool it to room temperature. I finish the baking  to order resulting in a lovely mousselike texture that’s a cross between a Chocolate Souffle and a Warm Chocolate Cake. I serve it with an orange wine sauce (hence, the “vin”) and whipped cream on the side. The benefit to making a dessert like this versus a traditional Choclate Souffle is that you can do it ahead of time and just put the finishing touches on while your guests wait for dessert.
You can use the same recipe formula to make different results. You could bake the same batter like a Brownie or Chocolate Cake in a 350F oven. It will rise up like a souffle and then fall in the middle as it cools (this is normal). Just don’t overbake it or it will be too dry. It is done when a toothpick inserted into the middle is still very moist, but not tasing of raw batter. I usually call this a Fallen Flourless Chocolate Souffle Cake.
No matter how you bake it or what you call it you’ll find that it’s a delicious recipe with a lovely texture. I use Valrhona brand chocolate (about 70% Cocoa Solids) which has an excellent and pure flavor. And as with all desserts, the sweetness can be varied according to taste. I like mine on the less sweet side so this recipe reflects that.
ENJOY!!
Valrhona Cocoa Vin
Makes about 12 servings
Cake:
8 Extra Large Eggs, Separated
1/4 cup Sugar, Granulated
9 ozs Valrhona Chocolate, Bittersweet, Chopped into small pieces
6 ozs Butter, Unsalted
1/4 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp Lime or Lemon Juice
Non-stick cooking spray
Powdered Sugar for dusting cake
Optional Garnish – 3 T. Toasted Hazelnuts, Chopped
Orange Wine Sauce:
2 cups Fresh Squeezed Orange Juice
Zest of 1/2 Orange, Grated
3/4 cup White Wine, any kind will do
1/4 cup Granulated Sugar (or less if you like)
Method:
1) Preheat oven to 300F.
2) Spray 6 souffle cups with cooking spray and set into a roasting pan.
3) Place chocolate and butter into a medium mixing bowl, and melt by placing over a pan of simmering water. Cool slightly.
4) Beat egg yolks, half the sugar, and the salt at high speed in mixer until light and pale yellow in color. Fold the melted chocolate into this mixture.
5) Beat Egg whites with remaining sugar and lemon or lime juice until medium peaks form, then fold gently into chocolate/yolk mixture. Divide batter into souffle cups, filling about 3/4 full.
6) Add simmering water to the roasting pan until it comes halfway up the sides of the cups. Bake in oven about 20 minutes until it begins to rise slighty (about to the top of the souffle cups). Remove from oven and remove from water bath to allow to cool to room temperature. Set aside until ready to serve.
7) Prepare Wine Sauce: combine orange juice, grated zest, wine, and sugar and bring to a boil, then simmer until reduced by half to yield about 1 1/2 cups sauce. Set aside.
To Finish Souffle Cakes:
Heat oven to 400F, place cakes on a baking tray. Run a knife around the top edge of the cups so the cake doesn’t stick to the cup. Bake for about 10 minutes until cakes rise about 1/2 an inch above the rim of the souffle dish. Be careful not to burn the edge of the cakes, if the edge of the cakes starts to get too dark before they have risen lower the oven temperature slighty.
Dust each cake with powdered sugar and optional hazelnuts, serve with Orange Wine Sauce on the side, and some Whipped Cream if desired. I like to spoon the wine sauce into the center of each souffle as I serve it to the guests.

3 Comments

Filed under Baked Goods, Dessert

Tagged as , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

December 20, 2008

Bisque de Tomates en Croute

img_16252

Tomato Bisque with Chevre and Puff Pastry Crust at Cafe du Soleil

 

Here’s something kind of retro for the holidays. It’s a very simple recipe that looks complicated – and it’s sure to wow your guests! You can use this technique with many different soups. You could even dress up a store-bought soup and easily pass it off as your own creation. I first came across this presentation back in cooking school when Paul Bocuse’s Truffle Soup named after President Giscard d’Estaing was all the rage. I’m sure it’s a technique that’s been around for ages though.

 

By the way this recipe is essentially the same as a Marinara sauce (just don’t add the tomato juice or cream, and puree it in a food mill instead of a blender). Make a double or triple batch, puree half for soup, and save the rest for pasta. The soup can be made well in advance, then heated and finished with the pastry crust just before serving.

 

 

Bisque de Tomates en Croute – Tomato Bisque with a Puff Pastry Crust – serves 4

 

One 28.5 oz. Can Whole Peeled Plum Tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)

1 small Onion, chopped

1 T. Garlic, minced

2 T. Olive Oil

½ tsp Oregano, dried

½ tsp Basil, dried

Salt and freshly ground Black Pepper to taste

1 cup Tomato Juice

½ cup Heavy Cream (optional)

4 oz. Goat Cheese Log, cut into 4 slices

 

Pastry Crust:

1 sheet Puff Pastry, frozen (store bought is fine)

1 Egg Yolk

¼ cup Milk

 

Method:

 

Heat a 2 qt. saucepan over medium heat. Cook onions and garlic in olive oil until soft. Add tomatoes and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Add seasonings and dried herbs and cook for about 30 minutes. Add tomato juice, then puree in a blender. Add heavy cream and chill if not serving immediately, or keep hot for serving.

 

For pastry crust – cut rounds of puff pastry about ½” larger than the size of the soup bowls you will be using (try to use deep narrow bowls rather than wide shallow ones). You can roll the dough out thinner if you want a crispier crust, but the result will be fine either way. Set pastry aside in refrigerator between sheets of wax paper. Mix egg yolk and milk for egg wash in a small bowl.

 

To serve:

Preheat oven to 400F. Place hot soup into bowls. Add a slice of goat cheese to each bowl. Wet the rim and outside edge of the bowl, and top each with a round of puff pastry. Press on the edges of the dough so it sticks to the bowl. Brush a thin layer of egg wash all over pastry and place bowls on a baking sheet in oven. Bake for  5-10 minutes until pastry is nicely browned. Serve immediately.

 

Bon Appetit!!

Leave a Comment

Filed under Appetizers, Autumn Soups, Soups

Tagged as , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

November 18, 2008

Roasted Pumpkin or Winter Squash Soup

Pumpkin Soup - Photo by Nina Wurtzel

Pumpkin Soup - Photo by Nina Wurtzel

Here’s a great dish for the season – nice for a fall dinner or for a part of your Thanksgiving feast.

The best pumpkins to use for this are called Cheese Pumpkins. They may be hard to find unless you have a farmer’s market nearby. You can use regular pumpkins or other winter squash such as butternut, acorn, delicata, or hubbard. The roasting of the squash is what gives this soup it’s characteristic flavor so be sure not to skimp on this step. Once the squash is roasted the soup cooks quickly so it doesn’t really take longer overall. I havent tried this soup with canned pumpkin but alot of recipes suggest using it so you could give it a shot. I usually use canned pumpkin for pies so I’m not opposed to it on principle.

What I like about this version of pumpkin soup is its simplicity and versatility. Seasonings can be varied depending on what style you want. Try adding fresh chopped ginger and five spice powder for a more Asian style. Or try cumin, garlic, and fresh cilantro for a South American twist. Curry also works well with squash.

Try different liquids as well – chicken stock, white wine, or apple cider would all work – but probably best in combination with water. If you want to experiment just taste as you go along  – and stick with the vegetable to liquid ratio.

Additionally, some recipes call for onions or leeks (gently cooked in butter or oil) as an additional flavoring. I dont add them in here but if you want to just use about one cup of onion/leeks per pound of squash.

Finally, you can play around with different garnishes too. Any kind of toasted croutons work well with soup – sourdough, cornbread, etc. In this recipe I use toasted pumkin seeds but nuts would work well too. 

As with most soups it is best made a day or two ahead so the flavors can comingle and the cook can taste it with a fresh palate!

 

Roasted Pumpkin Soup    (Yields about 8 servings)

*Ratio of vegetable to liquid is 3 cups liquid per pound of squash*

2 pounds pumpkin or winter squash – cut into 3″ pieces and seeds removed

1/4 cup vegetable oil

6 cups liquid (I use 1/2 Water and 1/2 fresh squeezed orange juice)

Seasonings:

zest of one orange

1/2 – 1 tsp cinnamon, ground

4 T. honey

pinch nutmeg

salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

Optional to finish soup:

8 Tbsp unsalted butter or 1/2 cup heavy cream

Garnish:

Toasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas) – about 1 Tbsp per person – toasted with spices and a pinch of salt

 

Method:

Preheat oven to 400F.

Toss pumpkin or squash with vegetable oil and lay out on a baking sheet. Roast in oven for about 30-40 minutes turning occasionally to ensure even browning. Make sure squash is very tender so that it will puree smoothly. Allow to cool slightly.

Scoop the flesh from the skin and place in a 4 qt. saucepan. Add the liquids and seasonings, bring to a boil, then simmer about 30 minutes.

Puree with a hand blender or in a regular blender but be very careful not to fill blender more than halfway with soup to avoid blowing the top off and burning yourself. Taste soup and adjust seasonings if needed. Add additional liquid if you think the soup is too thick.

To serve – reheat soup and add optional butter or cream. Top with pumpkin seeds. Some Chefs serve this soup in a hollowed out pumkin for dramatic effect – it’s up to you if you want to go that route.

2 Comments

Filed under Appetizers, Autumn Soups, Ratio Recipes, Thanksgiving Recipes

Tagged as , , , , , , , , ,

October 17, 2008

Wild Mushroom Ragout

Wild Mushroom Ragout at Cafe du Soleil

Wild Mushroom Ragout at Cafe du Soleil

Today’s post continues the series of dishes from my restaurant Cafe du Soleil photographed by Philippe Touitou.
He does an excellent job of making my food look even better than in real life!
The wild mushroom ragout doesn’t have much of a recipe to follow - since it’s really just sauteed mushrooms with chopped garlic, shallots, and herbs. But I’ll give you some guidelines to follow to create a successful dish, or “un plat bien reussi” as the French say.
To begin with, let’s start at the highest level. Call your local mycologist and see if they will take you foraging with them.
Here are a couple links:
http://theforagerpress.com/community/index.htm
http://www.wildmanstevebrill.com/
There really is nothing to compare with cooking mushrooms that you have picked yourself. I highly recommmend it but let me say this first: Unless you consider yourself to be an expert, or are with an expert, or just have a death wish, DO NOT TRY THIS ON YOUR OWN!!
Imagine coming home with a nice harvest of your own……..
Okay so thats probably not gonna happen too often, right?
So next best would be to buy some wild mushrooms at your local gourmet market. Two problems with this: they are usually VERY expensive and they usually arent all that fresh, and (okay that’s three problems) it’s hard to tell cultivated “wild”mushrooms from real ones. So, what to do? Well, buy a few of the wild mushrooms and mix them with less expensive cultivated mushrooms such as Portobellos, Oyster mushrooms, and Shiitakes.
Actually, your local Farmer’s Market might have some wild mushrooms so try checking there too. And I have seen some high-end cultivated mushrooms there.
Once you have your mushrooms, you must confront the eternal mushroom question.
Wash or don’t wash?
I’m not going to add fuel to that debate - I usually dont wash mushrooms. Here’s a blog post about washing mushrooms if you want more info:
http://beyondsalmon.blogspot.com/2008/05/its-ok-to-wash-your-mushrooms.html
Most important when cooking your mushrooms is to get your pan really hot! That way the water in the mushrooms basically evaporates as it comes out of the mushrooms. Some mushrooms have more water than others though, so some experimenting will be needed. So once your pan is super hot, add your oil.
I usually saute mushrooms in vegetable oil. And you usually need more oil than you think.
Toss the mushrooms in the pan occasionally, allow them to brown nicely. When they are almost done, add some chopped garlic and shallots, then season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Just before serving add a splash of white wine and a knob of butter, then a little choppped parsley and you’re ready to go.

5 Comments

Filed under Appetizers, Mushrooms, Side Dishes, Thanksgiving Recipes

Tagged as , , , , , , , , , , ,

September 27, 2008

Tomate Montrachet

 

With this post I am beginning a series of recipes for dishes that I serve at Cafe du Soleil. The beautiful photos are done by Phillippe Touitou. Some of these photos can also be found on our website www.cafedusoleilnyc.com so please check that out if you want to see more food pictures. I will be providing recipes for those dishes in the upcoming months. Some of these will be ratio recipes, or have ratio elements to them, but mostly I am featuring them to give you a better idea of how we present the dishes at the restaurant.

 

Today’s recipe is quite simple to make. It’s one of our most popular appetizers at Cafe du Soleil - if you’re in the New York area please come by and try it.  The name of the dish refers to the use of French Montrachet goat cheese but any soft goat cheese log will do. You can even use a flavored log but that will change the dish a bit. You can use many types of tomatoes – beefsteak, heirloom, etc. as long as they are fully ripe and ready to eat. I wouldn’t suggest plum tomatoes as they are not juicy enough. This dish does get baked a little, but it’s mostly to warm the tomato through not really to bake it.

 

Tomate Montrachet – serves 4 as an appetizer

4                        Vine Ripe Tomatoes

8 ozs.                Montrachet Goat Cheese (or other fresh goat cheese)

1/2 cup             Basil Pesto

2 T                    Chive Oil (see recipe in blog post from June 18, 2008)

Tomato Vinaigrette:

1/4 cup             Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1/2 cup             Shallots, peeled and choppped

1/2 cup             Imported White Wine Vinegar

1 28 oz. can      Whole Plum Tomatoes, peeled, in juice

Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper to taste

 

Method:

Preheat oven to 350F.

Vinaigrette:

Saute shallots in olive oil until soft, add white wine vinegar and cook about 15 minutes until reduced by half. Add tomatoes and their juice and simmmer about 30 – 40 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Puree in blender or with hand blender until smooth. Adjust seasoning (you can add more vinegar if you like a sharper vinaigrette). Set aside in a warm place until ready to serve.

Tomatoes:

Slice each tomato into 3 even slices. Set the top of each tomato aside and lay the remaining slices out on worktable. Spread about 1 T of basil pesto on each slice. Cut the goat cheese into 8 even slices and flatten each slice to the same size as the tomato slice. Place one disc of goat cheese on each tomato slice, season with salt and pepper, then reconstruct each tomato finishing each with the top slice.

Baking and Assembly:

Place tomatoes on a lightly oiled baking sheet and bak in oven about 10 minutes until warmed through. When ready to serve place a couple spoonfuls of tomato vinaigrette on each plate, place a tometo on each plate, and decorate the egde of the plate with chive oil, or you could use some pesto thinned with a little olive oil. You can also decorate the plate with a few leaves of baby salad greens. Just remember that the star of this plate is the tomato so dont overpower it with greens.

Enjoy!!

As always please send comments or feedback so I know how you are enjoying these recipes.

5 Comments

Filed under Appetizers, Side Dishes

Tagged as , , , , , , , , ,

August 23, 2008

LA Times Article – Chefs Who Blog

I added a link to an excellent article from the Los Angeles Times food section from March about Chefs who blog. I’m happy to be included in the article and thought you might like to see it. I have added a link to the article in my “Links to Press Articles” page above so please give it a read.

1 Comment

Filed under Uncategorized

Tagged as , , ,