Monthly Archives: March 2008

The Best Beurre Blanc

dartington-hall.jpg

When I was 18 I spent a year in Devon, England studying music at Dartington College of the Arts. If you are ever in that part of England you should pay a visit to this beautiful part of the UK. The college was located at Dartington Hall which is now run as a conference center and bed and breakfast. You can visit the estate without staying there. The college has apparently moved out of the estate. It has a fascinating history.

 

Dartington Hall Homepage

Dartington College of Arts Homepage

Dartington Hall on Wikipedia

 My family had a long history at Dartington. My fathers’ mother taught piano there at the grade school, my mother was a voice student at the college, and it was there that my parents met. So it was an amazing experience for me to be there for a year before going to cooking school at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. I took lessons in oboe, voice, and classical guitar. I sang in the choir in the amazing Great Hall, and I took music theory classes and the like. All of this is a prelude to the story of my spring break trip of that year abroad. While my fellow students were partying hard I took my trusty moped and hopped the Channel ferry to France arriving in Roscoff, Brittany. I cut a diagonal swath through France (I’ve never calculated the distance but boy was my ass sore!) ending up in the Alps. From there I took a night train to Rome arriving on Good Friday. Not being a very religious person I was oblivious to the ramifications this holiday had on accommodations in Rome!! I finally managed to find a shared room in a pensione through the help of a guide at the train station who amazingly did not rip me off.  But I digress…… The point is, while I was traveling through France I was finally tasting all the exciting and fabulous flavors of French cooking firsthand. I had read about many of these dishes and tried to cook some of them at home from Julia Child’s books. But here was the REAL DEAL. Being a student I was on a very tight budget. I stayed at Youth Hostels whenever possible and I chose restaurants mostly based on their low priced menu. But when I got to Lyons (which was the first big city I had come upon – I saved Paris for later) I had trouble finding a restaurant that met my budget. So I wandered around and finally found a place that had a main course listed for 28 Francs or so. That was about $6.00 then (1980) which seemed a little low, but I actually didn’t even know what the item was. Well it turned out to be a Daurade and it was served with the most delicious sauce I had ever tasted (even better than hollandaise which was my favorite up to that point). I figured out when I got to cooking school that it had been a beurre blanc (white butter sauce). And I learned how to make it for myself!!The funny ending to the story is that the Daurade actually cost me about 128 Francs (they must have left off the 1 on the menu in front). After recovering from the sticker shock (I could have gotten several full meals elsewhere for the price of that one fish), I figured, Well it was worth every Franc!  So here is a basic recipe for Beurre Blanc.Make it. Memorize it. It seems rich but you don’t need a lot on your plate.It lends itself to many variations of flavorings. Change the wine, change the vinegar, add herbs, add purees, do what you want with it.  

Beurre Blanc – White Butter Sauce – Yield about 1 cup sauce which will serve 4-6 as an accompaniment to grilled fish.

 Reduction:

½ cup White Wine                                                       

½ cup White Wine Vinegar                                   

½ cup   Shallots, Peeled and Chopped              

 

½ # Butter, Unsalted,                                                               

the best you can afford                                                 

 

Seasonongs:

Salt and Pepper to taste           

Method:

                                               

Combine wine, vinegar, and shallots in small saucepan, bring to boil, reduce until almost dry. Cut butter into small cubes, whisk into reduction off heat a few pieces at a time. Season to taste

 

Heavy Cream can be used as a stabilizer if you need to hold the sauce for a time before serving. I like the purity of the sauce without it. For ½ # butter you would use about 2 Tbsp. cream, add it to the reduction, bring to a boil, then add the butter as above.

  

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Filed under French Regional Specialties, Ratio Recipes, Sauces

Basic Muffin and Pancake Recipes

I made some breakfast muffins the other day and while looking over the recipe I had an Aha!! moment (even after 25 years of cooking professionally I still get those once in a while). I realized that the recipe for muffins that I was reading was almost exactly the same as my recipe for pancakes.

 

I like to base my recipes on a uniform amount of flour so that I can see how different baked goods resemble each other. I usually start with 2 cups of flour (which is a nice friendly amount) and go from there. So if I am trying a new recipe I will often convert it to this amount first. After doing this with the muffin recipe that I wanted to try I saw that the ingredients and technique for a good basic muffin were essentially the same as those for pancakes but with half the liquid, and more butter (depending on your pancake recipe). So I thought I would present these two recipes for you so you can see for yourself.

 

My idea of a good muffin, by the way, is one that is tender, not too sweet, and is light and moist. A good muffin will pack in enough healthy ingredients to give you a good start to the day, in a super-convenient, eat on the run format.  Most commercially made muffins are either cupcakes-minus-the-frosting or dry-as-cardboard low-fat monstrosities that even the tallest grande coffee will have a hard time moistening. And it’s so easy to make your own muffins at home once a week and freeze them so that you have a good nutritious breakfast ready when you want it.

Basic Muffin Recipe: (Yield 12 medium sized muffins) 

Dry Ingredients:

 

2 cups (10 ozs.)  Flour – I use ½ Whole Wheat and ½ All Purpose (for most accurate measuring weigh flour)

3 tsp.  Baking Powder

1 tsp. Salt

Spices as desired

 

 

 

Wet Ingredients:

 

2 Eggs, Extra Large

1 cup (8 ozs.) Milk, Whole or 2%

½ cup (4 ozs.) Vegetable Oil

½ cup (4 ozs.) Sugar

 

Add-Ins:

1 – 2 cups of fresh or dried fruits, nuts, oats, bran, grated vegetables (i.e. carrots, zucchini), chocolate chips, etc. Moisture content of these items varies so you may need to experiment with quantities.

 

Method:

Preheat oven to 350F.

1) Weigh flour, then mix with remaining dry ingredients. Sift these together either with a sifter, or by putting them in the food processor for a few minutes (both techniques will aerate the flour which is the goal here).

2) Whisk eggs and sugar together in a small bowl, then add oil and milk.

3) Add wet ingredients to dry and mix together gently to just combine – do not over-mix batter. Fold in any additional ingredients. Fill muffin cups (sprayed with nonstick spray) with batter.

4) Bake for about 25-30 minutes until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean.

  

Basic Pancake Recipe: (Yields about 12 Medium Pancakes)

Dry Ingredients:

2 cups (10 ozs.) Flour – All Purpose (or ½ Whole Wheat and ½ All Purpose)

2 tsp.  Baking Powder = 1 tsp. per cup flour

1 tsp. Salt

 

Wet Ingredients:

2 Eggs, Extra Large = 1 egg per cup flour

2 cups (16 ozs.) Milk, Whole or 2% = 1 cup milk per cup flour

4 Tbsp. (2 ozs.) Butter, melted

4 Tbsp. (2 ozs.) Sugar

 

Add-Ins:

1 cup of fresh fruits, chocolate chips, cottage cheese, etc.

Butter or non-stick spray for griddle

 

Method:

1)      Preheat electric griddle or frying pan (I prefer cast iron for even heat).

2)      Prepare batter in same manner as for muffins, blending dry and wet ingredients separately then combining until just mixed.

3)      If possible let batter rest for 30 – 60 minutes. The pancakes will be noticeably fluffier and more tender if you allow this resting time.

4)      Spread a small dab of butter over surface of griddle (or spray with cooking spray) and ladle batter onto griddle. Let cook until bubbles appear throughout the surface, then flip over and cook the other side. Serve with your preferred topping.

 

Now just a few words about why I consider these recipes to be so similar.

 

1)      They use the same method of mixing the batter.

2)      The ingredients are virtually the same but the quantities differ. The main difference is that the muffins use ½ as much liquid resulting in a thicker batter. Some recipes do bake pancake batter in the oven (think baked apple pancakes) but that requires a baking dish to contain the batter.

3)      Muffins use a little more leavening since the batter is thicker.

4)      Muffins sometimes use more fat (in this case oil since we’re trying to be healthy in the morning) since they are baked rather than on a griddle with additional fat, and they use more sugar since they usually aren’t smothered in maple syrup. But remember sugar is always adjustable based on your taste so use less if you want.

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Filed under Breakfast and Brunch Dishes, Doughs, Muffins, Pancakes, Pastry Basics, Ratio Recipes