Tag Archives: Ratio Baking

Mixed Berry Gratin with Champagne Sabayon

 

 

 

This is one of my favorite desserts at Cafe du Soleil – it’s so light that it makes the perfect ending to a big meal. This same sabayon technique can be used for savory dishes. You would just make the Champagne sabayon described below, omitting the sugar in both the sabayon and in the whipped cream. And I usually add a little finely chopped shallots in with the yolks and Champagne. Spread over steamed asparagus (or lump crabmeat and asparagus), sprinkled with a little grated Parmesan cheese and browned under the broiler, it makes a very professional looking (and great tasting) appetizer.

 

 

 

Mixed Berry Gratin with Champagne Sabayon            Yield: 4 servings

 

Ingredients:

Ratio                 Weight               Volume          Ingredient

1 part                4 ozs                     (4)             Egg Yolks, XL

1 part                4 ozs                 (1/2 cup)      Champagne,       

1 Tbsp/yolk       4 Tbsp              (1/4 cup)       Sugar, Granulated

 

Add-Ins:          1 cup                 Whipped Cream (lightly sweetened)

                         2 cups               Mixed Fresh Berries

                                                   Fresh mint for garnish

 

Method:

 

1)       Fill a medium saucepan half full with water and bring to a simmer.

2)       Combine yolks, Champagne, and sugar in a medium stainless steel or heat resistant glass bowl. Whisk together for a few minutes until well blended.

3)       Place mixing bowl over simmering water (it should not touch the water) and whisk for about 10 – 15 minutes until the mixture about triples in volume. Don’t let the mixture get too hot or it will scramble the eggs (in other words if you see steam rising from the surface it’s getting too hot). The finished texture should be like lightly whipped cream.

4)       The sabayon can be served warm at this point, or chilled.

5)    When cold, fold in whipped cream and set aside. This can be made well in advance if you like and kept cold until ready to use.

6)    While the sabayon is chilling, clean berries and arrange           decoratively on four plates.

7)       When ready to serve, place plates in a 350F oven to warm for about 2 minutes. Remove from oven and spoon sabayon mixture evenly over the berries. Place plates under the broiler until sabayon is lightly browned, or use a blowtorch to brown them as you would for a Crème Brulee. Garnish with fresh mint sprigs.

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Filed under Dessert, French Regional Specialties, Pastry Basics, Ratio Recipes, Summer Desserts

Basic Muffin and Pancake Recipes

I made some breakfast muffins the other day and while looking over the recipe I had an Aha!! moment (even after 25 years of cooking professionally I still get those once in a while). I realized that the recipe for muffins that I was reading was almost exactly the same as my recipe for pancakes.

 

I like to base my recipes on a uniform amount of flour so that I can see how different baked goods resemble each other. I usually start with 2 cups of flour (which is a nice friendly amount) and go from there. So if I am trying a new recipe I will often convert it to this amount first. After doing this with the muffin recipe that I wanted to try I saw that the ingredients and technique for a good basic muffin were essentially the same as those for pancakes but with half the liquid, and more butter (depending on your pancake recipe). So I thought I would present these two recipes for you so you can see for yourself.

 

My idea of a good muffin, by the way, is one that is tender, not too sweet, and is light and moist. A good muffin will pack in enough healthy ingredients to give you a good start to the day, in a super-convenient, eat on the run format.  Most commercially made muffins are either cupcakes-minus-the-frosting or dry-as-cardboard low-fat monstrosities that even the tallest grande coffee will have a hard time moistening. And it’s so easy to make your own muffins at home once a week and freeze them so that you have a good nutritious breakfast ready when you want it.

Basic Muffin Recipe: (Yield 12 medium sized muffins) 

Dry Ingredients:

 

2 cups (10 ozs.)  Flour – I use ½ Whole Wheat and ½ All Purpose (for most accurate measuring weigh flour)

3 tsp.  Baking Powder

1 tsp. Salt

Spices as desired

 

 

 

Wet Ingredients:

 

2 Eggs, Extra Large

1 cup (8 ozs.) Milk, Whole or 2%

½ cup (4 ozs.) Vegetable Oil

½ cup (4 ozs.) Sugar

 

Add-Ins:

1 – 2 cups of fresh or dried fruits, nuts, oats, bran, grated vegetables (i.e. carrots, zucchini), chocolate chips, etc. Moisture content of these items varies so you may need to experiment with quantities.

 

Method:

Preheat oven to 350F.

1) Weigh flour, then mix with remaining dry ingredients. Sift these together either with a sifter, or by putting them in the food processor for a few minutes (both techniques will aerate the flour which is the goal here).

2) Whisk eggs and sugar together in a small bowl, then add oil and milk.

3) Add wet ingredients to dry and mix together gently to just combine – do not over-mix batter. Fold in any additional ingredients. Fill muffin cups (sprayed with nonstick spray) with batter.

4) Bake for about 25-30 minutes until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean.

  

Basic Pancake Recipe: (Yields about 12 Medium Pancakes)

Dry Ingredients:

2 cups (10 ozs.) Flour – All Purpose (or ½ Whole Wheat and ½ All Purpose)

2 tsp.  Baking Powder = 1 tsp. per cup flour

1 tsp. Salt

 

Wet Ingredients:

2 Eggs, Extra Large = 1 egg per cup flour

2 cups (16 ozs.) Milk, Whole or 2% = 1 cup milk per cup flour

4 Tbsp. (2 ozs.) Butter, melted

4 Tbsp. (2 ozs.) Sugar

 

Add-Ins:

1 cup of fresh fruits, chocolate chips, cottage cheese, etc.

Butter or non-stick spray for griddle

 

Method:

1)      Preheat electric griddle or frying pan (I prefer cast iron for even heat).

2)      Prepare batter in same manner as for muffins, blending dry and wet ingredients separately then combining until just mixed.

3)      If possible let batter rest for 30 – 60 minutes. The pancakes will be noticeably fluffier and more tender if you allow this resting time.

4)      Spread a small dab of butter over surface of griddle (or spray with cooking spray) and ladle batter onto griddle. Let cook until bubbles appear throughout the surface, then flip over and cook the other side. Serve with your preferred topping.

 

Now just a few words about why I consider these recipes to be so similar.

 

1)      They use the same method of mixing the batter.

2)      The ingredients are virtually the same but the quantities differ. The main difference is that the muffins use ½ as much liquid resulting in a thicker batter. Some recipes do bake pancake batter in the oven (think baked apple pancakes) but that requires a baking dish to contain the batter.

3)      Muffins use a little more leavening since the batter is thicker.

4)      Muffins sometimes use more fat (in this case oil since we’re trying to be healthy in the morning) since they are baked rather than on a griddle with additional fat, and they use more sugar since they usually aren’t smothered in maple syrup. But remember sugar is always adjustable based on your taste so use less if you want.

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Filed under Breakfast and Brunch Dishes, Doughs, Muffins, Pancakes, Pastry Basics, Ratio Recipes

Warm Blueberry Pie with Almond Crumb Topping

I was walking by the market the other day and saw blueberries at 2 half pints for $5.00 and I thought of this great pie recipe I usually make in the summer during blueberry season. So I thought it would be great to bring a little summer into January and share this recipe with you. 

This pie is really the best of both worlds – it’s a blueberry crisp or crumble in a pie shell. It’s quick, easy, and delicious!! I wouldn’t substitute frozen blueberries in this recipe because the texture will be completely different. The beauty of this pie is that the blueberries don’t become that teeth and denture-staining mush that is usually served as Blueberry Pie. You could just as easily omit the pastry and bake it in a baking dish as a crisp. And you could substitute other berries or fruit, or use a different crisp or a crumble topping if you have one that you prefer.

 

 

 

For the pastry shell you can use a slightly sweetened shell if you want but I don’t think it’s necessary. Just add about 2 Tbsp. sugar per pie shell. You can reduce the liquid in the pie shell also to have a more tender crust since the filling of this pie isnt very loose. Use about 2 ozs. liquid (based on 10 ozs. flour) instead of 3ozs. - so that would be 1 egg, or 1 oz. egg + 1 oz. water (remember our hydration formula – this would be a 20% hydration dough).

You could also increase the fat if you want a richer dough. Remember what I said about fat ratios – you can go as high as you dare up to 100 % of the flour weight (and probably higher – but I’ve never tried that). In Pro lingo we also say that this would be a ”shorter” dough, as in shortbread. Fat shortens the strands of gluten that make a tougher, more durable crust, so the more fat you have the more tender the crust. But please remember this is food and your body needs to be nourished, not sent into shock trying to digest all that fat!

Warm Blueberry Pie with Almond Crumb Topping: 

 

1 9” Pastry Shell from my recent blog on unsweetened pie dough

 

Filling:

¼ cup AP Flour

2 Tbsp. Cornstarch

2 Tbsp. Brown Sugar

2 Tbsp. Granulated Sugar

pinch Ground Cinnamon

pinch Ground Nutmeg

1 pint Fresh Blueberries

Juice of 1/2 Lemon

 

Topping:

2 Tbsp. AP Flour

2 Tbsp. Brown Sugar

1 Tbsp Granulated Sugar

pinch Ground Nutmeg

1 oz. Butter, unsalted, softened

2 Tbsp. Rolled Oats

¼ cup Almonds, sliced, blanched  

 

Method:

 

Oven at 350F.

 

1. Pre-bake pastry shell as follows: Prick bottom of shell with a fork all over, Cover with foil, or baking parchment, add pie weights (or any dried beans), and bake for about 20 minutes, then carefully remove foil and weights and bake an additional 5 – 10 minutes until lightly browned. Set aside to cool slightly.

 

2. While the pie shell is baking, make the filling as follows: In a small bowl combine dry ingredients. Add the blueberries and the lemon juice and toss gently. Set aside.

 

3. For the topping: Combine all ingredients and set aside.

 

4. To assemble and bake: Pour the blueberry filling into the baked pie shell, sprinkle loosely with the topping. Bake for 25-35 minutes until the topping has attained a nice color. Serve while still warm, accompanied by ice cream or whipped cream.

 

 

 

 

I hope you enjoy the pie – Please comment or send questions and/or suggestions…

   

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Filed under Baked Goods, Dessert, Summer Desserts

Basic Sponge Cake Recipe

It can be so easy to remember a recipe when you are aware of the ratio of the ingredients to each other.

This Sponge Cake recipe is the one that opened my eyes as to how you can (and should) simplify a recipe to make it easier to remember. More importantly, in doing so I think it takes some of the fear away from trying to make a seemingly complicated dish.

This recipe has many variations and uses. The same formula can be used as a plain but delicious Vanilla Sponge Cake, the cake for a Jelly Roll, the cake for a Christmas Yule Log, a Chocolate Sponge Cake, etc.

Here’s what you need to remember:

For One 8” Cake or One Cookie Sheet

6 Eggs, Extra Large

6 ozs. Sugar

6 ozs. Butter, unsalted

6 ozs. Flour

That’s the basic recipe.

You can memorize that easily, and the only thing you need to remember besides that is to add a pinch of salt, and a teaspoon of pure vanilla extract. If you are making a chocolate sponge just add 2 heaping Tbsps. of cocoa powder.

The recipe that I illustrate below is the Chocolate Sponge Roll which I will be using to make my Yule Logs on Tuesday. 

OK so besides the formula you obviously need instructions on how to make the cake. If you are like me then you can remember techniques quite easily. I’m fine on my own once I have made something after having been shown how to do it properly.

One way to simplify communication in baking is by categorizing each type of cake based on the method of preparation.

This cake is made using the Sponge Method. So once you have made this cake you will have mastered one of the major cake methods!

1.    Preheat oven to 350 F.

2.   Warm the eggs, sugar, and vanilla in your mixing bowl. Do this by immersing the bowl in hot water but be careful not to let the eggs cook at all – you just need to bring them to about 110 degrees which should just feel warm to the touch. Warming the eggs increases the amount of air that you can whip into them.

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3.   Melt the butter in a saucepan.

4.   Sift the flour and salt together (with the cocoa powder if using).

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5.   Whip the eggs at high speed about 5 minutes – you cant over-whip them because they will reach a certain height in the bowl and then they wont go any higher.

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6.   Remove the whisk from the bowl and, using a rubber spatula, fold in one third of the butter, and one third of the flour. When adding the flour try to add it slowly so that it forms an even layer on the surface before you begin your folding.

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Repeat until all the butter and flour are incorporated. Don’t over mix; it’s OK if there are small lumps of flour in the batter.

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7.    Pour the batter into your cake pan or cookie sheet (buttered and sugared). Spread batter evenly in pan.

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Bake about 30 minutes for an 8” cake, or about 10 minutes for a sponge roll. Either way a toothpick or knife inserted into the cake at the center should come out clean.

8.   Turn cake out onto a cooling rack and cool to room temperature. 

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I hope that the way that I have presented this recipe will take the fear out of trying it. Please send me feedback as to how it could be simpler, or if more explanation is needed in any area.Let me know if you tried it and it worked out well, or if you had any problems. 

 

 

Remember:

Cooking should be One Part Knowledge and Two Parts Fun!

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Filed under Baked Goods, Dessert, French Regional Specialties, Holiday Dishes, Pastry Basics, Ratio Recipes