Tag Archives: Desserts

Profiteroles aux Deux Chocolats – Profiteroles with White and Dark Chocolate Sauces

Profiteroles at Cafe du Soleil - Photo by Philippe Touitou

Profiteroles are one of the most popular desserts at Cafe du Soleil, especially during the hot summer months. They have the elements of any great ice cream dish – ice cream, whipped cream and chocolate sauce. The French add a nice crisp “pate a choux” (which literally translates to “cabbage pastry” , based on the shape of the cooked product). It’s an easy dough to make at home once you get the hang of it. There really are few pitfalls so please try it with confidence. Even though the recipe may look complicated – it’s not. At Cafe du Soleil we serve them with two sauces – white and dark chocolate, but you can just as easily serve it with one.

After seeing the beautiful photo above done by Philippe Touitou I dare you not to try this recipe!!

Profiteroles aux Deux Chocolats

Serves 6 – Pastry recipe makes about 12 large “Choux Puffs” so you will have an extra 6 for another round of profiteroles, or fill with whipped cream and dust with powdered sugar for cream puffs! They freeze well but you should “recrisp” them in oven after defrosting.

Pastry:

1/2 cup water

2 ozs butter, unsalted

pinch salt

1/2 cup (about 2 1/2 ozs) all purpose flour

2 large eggs

Profiteroles:

6 large scoops of your favorite vanilla ice cream

2 cups whipped cream

strawberries, powdered sugar, and mint for garnish

Chocolate Sauces:

Dark:

4 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate,  finely chopped (better quality chocolate = better sauce)

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup light corn syrup

White:

4 ounces white chocolate

1/2 cup heavy cream

Method:

Choux pastry:

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set up a heavy-duty mixer with the paddle attachment.

Combine the water, butter, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, add the flour all at once, and stir rapidly with a stiff heatproof spatula or wooden spoon until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and the bottom of the pan is clean, with no dough sticking to it.

Enough moisture must evaporate from the dough to allow it to absorb more fat when the eggs are added. Continue to stir for about 2-3 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary to prevent the dough from coloring. A thin coating will form on the bottom and sides of the pan. When enough moisture has evaporated, steam will rise from the dough and there will be the nutty aroma of cooked flour.

Transfer the dough to the mixer bowl and mix for a minute to release some of the heat from the dough. With the mixer on medium speed, add the eggs, one at a time, beating until each egg is completely incorporated before adding the next one; scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary.

Place the dough in a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain tip. Pipe 12 disks about 2 1/2 inches across and about 1/2 inch thick on the baking sheet, leaving about 1 inch between them, as they will expand when baked. You may need an additional baking sheet in order not to crowd them too much.

Bake the puffs for 10 minutes, turn the sheet around, turn the oven down to 350°F, and bake 15 minutes more. Remove one puff and break it open: It should be hollow inside and not gooey or eggy; if it is still moist, return it to the oven and check in 5 minutes. Cool the puffs completely on the baking sheet. Store in an airtight container until serving time.

Chocolate Sauces:

Technique is the same for both sauces (minus the corn syrup in the white chocolate sauce) -

Place the chocolate in a metal bowl.

Combine the cream and corn syrup in a small  saucepan and bring to a simmer. Pour the liquid over the chocolate and allow it to sit for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the chocolate has melted. Whisk to combine. Allow the sauce to cool slightly, then pour into a bowl or other container.

To serve:
Preheat the oven to 300°F.

Warm the chocolate sauces in a double boiler or a microwave. Split each profiterole in half,  and warm on a baking sheet in the oven until crisp.

Place bottom half of each puff on serving plate. Place a large scoop of ice cream in the bottom half of each profiterole and top with the lid. Spoon the sauces over and decorate each plate with a generous amount of whipped cream, a few strawberries, powdered sugar, and mint.

Now tell me what could be bad about that?!!!

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NYC Chocolate Show 2009

matthew Choc Show Demo 3

Matthew Tivy Presenting Cocoa Vin Recipe at Chocolate Show

Matthew Chocolate Show Demo 2

I was honored to be asked to present my recipe for Valrhona Cocoa Vin at the 2009 NYC Chocolate Show on October 31st.

It was a crazy weekend in NYC with the convergence of Halloween and the NYC Marathon (I’ll do a separate post for that when I get my photos).

cocoa vin at choc show

Mini Valrhona Cocoa Vin

You can find the recipe for the Valrhona Cocoa Vin in my post of January, 2009

For more info on the International Chocolate Shows:

www.chocolateshow.com

Here are some other photos from the show:

choc show

Tempting Chocolate Display

jacques torres

Renowned Pastry Chef Jacques Torres

choc show clown

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Valrhona Cocoa Vin

Cocoa Vin at Cafe du Soleil, Photo by Philippe Touitou

Cocoa Vin at Cafe du Soleil, Photo by Philippe Touitou

Just before opening Cafe du Soleil I was being treated by a physical therapist for a pulled muscle. We were talking about food as she stretched me and electrocuted me (those of you have gone through PT will know what I mean). She didn’t know much about French food and she asked me if a “coq au vin” was a kind of  dessert made with cocoa. I laughed and told her that even though the words are pronounced alike, the “coq” was in fact a chicken dish (or more accurately rooster, but noone serves rooster here). But she got me thinking about the play on words and I decided to create a chocolate dessert using wine. Thus was born my “Valrhona Cocoa Vin”.
At Cafe du Soleil we describe the “Valrhona Cocoa Vin” as a Warm Flourless Chocolate Souffle Cake. The technique I use is to bake it halfway in a water bath, then cool it to room temperature. I finish the baking  to order resulting in a lovely mousselike texture that’s a cross between a Chocolate Souffle and a Warm Chocolate Cake. I serve it with an orange wine sauce (hence, the “vin”) and whipped cream on the side. The benefit to making a dessert like this versus a traditional Choclate Souffle is that you can do it ahead of time and just put the finishing touches on while your guests wait for dessert.
You can use the same recipe formula to make different results. You could bake the same batter like a Brownie or Chocolate Cake in a 350F oven. It will rise up like a souffle and then fall in the middle as it cools (this is normal). Just don’t overbake it or it will be too dry. It is done when a toothpick inserted into the middle is still very moist, but not tasing of raw batter. I usually call this a Fallen Flourless Chocolate Souffle Cake.
No matter how you bake it or what you call it you’ll find that it’s a delicious recipe with a lovely texture. I use Valrhona brand chocolate (about 70% Cocoa Solids) which has an excellent and pure flavor. And as with all desserts, the sweetness can be varied according to taste. I like mine on the less sweet side so this recipe reflects that.
ENJOY!!
Valrhona Cocoa Vin
Makes about 12 servings
Cake:
8 Extra Large Eggs, Separated
1/4 cup Sugar, Granulated
9 ozs Valrhona Chocolate, Bittersweet, Chopped into small pieces
6 ozs Butter, Unsalted
1/4 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp Lime or Lemon Juice
Non-stick cooking spray
Powdered Sugar for dusting cake
Optional Garnish – 3 T. Toasted Hazelnuts, Chopped
Orange Wine Sauce:
2 cups Fresh Squeezed Orange Juice
Zest of 1/2 Orange, Grated
3/4 cup White Wine, any kind will do
1/4 cup Granulated Sugar (or less if you like)
Method:
1) Preheat oven to 300F.
2) Spray 6 souffle cups with cooking spray and set into a roasting pan.
3) Place chocolate and butter into a medium mixing bowl, and melt by placing over a pan of simmering water. Cool slightly.
4) Beat egg yolks, half the sugar, and the salt at high speed in mixer until light and pale yellow in color. Fold the melted chocolate into this mixture.
5) Beat Egg whites with remaining sugar and lemon or lime juice until medium peaks form, then fold gently into chocolate/yolk mixture. Divide batter into souffle cups, filling about 3/4 full.
6) Add simmering water to the roasting pan until it comes halfway up the sides of the cups. Bake in oven about 20 minutes until it begins to rise slighty (about to the top of the souffle cups). Remove from oven and remove from water bath to allow to cool to room temperature. Set aside until ready to serve.
7) Prepare Wine Sauce: combine orange juice, grated zest, wine, and sugar and bring to a boil, then simmer until reduced by half to yield about 1 1/2 cups sauce. Set aside.
To Finish Souffle Cakes:
Heat oven to 400F, place cakes on a baking tray. Run a knife around the top edge of the cups so the cake doesn’t stick to the cup. Bake for about 10 minutes until cakes rise about 1/2 an inch above the rim of the souffle dish. Be careful not to burn the edge of the cakes, if the edge of the cakes starts to get too dark before they have risen lower the oven temperature slighty.
Dust each cake with powdered sugar and optional hazelnuts, serve with Orange Wine Sauce on the side, and some Whipped Cream if desired. I like to spoon the wine sauce into the center of each souffle as I serve it to the guests.

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Almost Everything You Need To Know To Make Great Brownies

 

 

I have a deep-rooted biological need for chocolate at 3 pm on a daily basis. I think that recognizing that this is beyond my control makes it much easier to swallow (sorry – I couldn’t resist that one – uhoh I think that’s a pun on a pun – dangerous territory for sure!!)

Anyway, I think this comes from my father’s side of the family since as a kid I remember him hitting the chocolate about this time of day like clockwork. He was happy with a handful of chocolate chips or some other simple form of chocolate. But I prefer something with a little more “there” there. And probably my favorite way to indulge my chocolate requirement is a great brownie.

After much research I have found that brownie greatness is pretty subjective. Fudgy texture, cakey texture, sweetness, nuts or no-nuts, other additional ingredients, shiny top, crunchy top – these are all variations that come into play in brownies and everyone has their own favorites.

So my goal here is to show you how to achieve the brownie you want – which I hope you will be eternally grateful for (or just buy my cookbook when it comes out – either way I’ll be happy).

My version of a perfect brownie is one that is fudgy and slighty chewy, not too sweet, with a thin shiny crust on top – no nuts or anything else added in. So that’s the recipe I will start with. Then I will give you a more cakey brownie recipe which uses a different mixing technique called the “creaming” method.

As ususal I am giving you the recipes in ratio format and in traditional format. The ratio format should make it easier to remember the recipe. It should also help you understand the proportions needed to achieve a particular result.

 

Fudgy and Chewy Brownies:

Yield of “Suggested Amounts” is about 16 brownies

Ratio Amount               Suggested Amounts                        Ingredient

By Weight

     1 Part                               8 ozs                                Chocolate, Bittersweet,

                                                                                     Cut into small pieces

     1 Part                               8 ozs                                Sugar, Granulated

    1/2 Part                            4 ozs                                Butter, Unsalted

    1/2 Part                            4 ozs (2)                           Eggs, Extra Large, lightly beaten

    1/4 -1/2 Part                   2 – 4 ozs                          Flour, All Purpose, sifted

                                                                                     (less flour will give fudgier texture)

       x                                    2 tsp.                               Vanilla Extract, Pure

       x                                    1/4 tsp                             Salt

       x                                    1/4 tsp                             Baking Powder (optional if you want

                                                                                      a sightly less fudgy texture)

 

Method:

Preheat oven to 350F

Melt chocolate, sugar, and butter in a mixing bowl set over (but not touching) a pan of simmering water until fully melted but not too hot. Remove from heat and whisk in eggs, salt, and vanilla extract. Then blend in flour gently (don’t overmix).

Pour batter into a 9″ square greased baking pan (glass or aluminum). You can line the pan with parchment paper (which needs to be buttered also) for easier removal after baking.

Bake for about 35-40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out almost clean (if it’s clean the brownies are overbaked).

Let cool slightly then remove brownies from pan and cool on a cooling rack. Cut into desired shapes after cooling (if you can wait that long – I know I can’t!!)

 

Light and Cakey Brownies

Ratio Amount               Suggested Amounts               Ingredient

By Volume

1 Part                               1 cup (2 sticks)              Butter, Unsalted, Softened

1 Part                               1 cup                             Sugar, Granulated

1 Part                               1 cup                             Cocoa Powder

1 Part                               1 cup (4)                        Eggs, Extra Large, lightly beaten

1 Part                               1 cup                             Flour, All Purpose

   x                                   1 tsp                             Vanilla Extract

   x                                   1 tsp                             Baking Powder

   x                                   1/4 tsp                         Salt

 

Method:

Preheat oven to 350F

Cream butter and sugar in an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add eggs, salt, and vanilla and blend until combined. Add flour (sifted with baking powder) and mix gently by hand until just combined (don’t overmix).

Pour batter into a 9″ square greased baking pan (glass or aluminum). You can line the pan with parchment paper (which needs to be buttered also) for easier removal after baking.

Bake for about 35-40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

Let cool slightly then remove brownies from pan and cool on a cooling rack. Cut into desired shapes after cooling.

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Mixed Berry Gratin with Champagne Sabayon

 

 

 

This is one of my favorite desserts at Cafe du Soleil – it’s so light that it makes the perfect ending to a big meal. This same sabayon technique can be used for savory dishes. You would just make the Champagne sabayon described below, omitting the sugar in both the sabayon and in the whipped cream. And I usually add a little finely chopped shallots in with the yolks and Champagne. Spread over steamed asparagus (or lump crabmeat and asparagus), sprinkled with a little grated Parmesan cheese and browned under the broiler, it makes a very professional looking (and great tasting) appetizer.

 

 

 

Mixed Berry Gratin with Champagne Sabayon            Yield: 4 servings

 

Ingredients:

Ratio                 Weight               Volume          Ingredient

1 part                4 ozs                     (4)             Egg Yolks, XL

1 part                4 ozs                 (1/2 cup)      Champagne,       

1 Tbsp/yolk       4 Tbsp              (1/4 cup)       Sugar, Granulated

 

Add-Ins:          1 cup                 Whipped Cream (lightly sweetened)

                         2 cups               Mixed Fresh Berries

                                                   Fresh mint for garnish

 

Method:

 

1)       Fill a medium saucepan half full with water and bring to a simmer.

2)       Combine yolks, Champagne, and sugar in a medium stainless steel or heat resistant glass bowl. Whisk together for a few minutes until well blended.

3)       Place mixing bowl over simmering water (it should not touch the water) and whisk for about 10 – 15 minutes until the mixture about triples in volume. Don’t let the mixture get too hot or it will scramble the eggs (in other words if you see steam rising from the surface it’s getting too hot). The finished texture should be like lightly whipped cream.

4)       The sabayon can be served warm at this point, or chilled.

5)    When cold, fold in whipped cream and set aside. This can be made well in advance if you like and kept cold until ready to use.

6)    While the sabayon is chilling, clean berries and arrange           decoratively on four plates.

7)       When ready to serve, place plates in a 350F oven to warm for about 2 minutes. Remove from oven and spoon sabayon mixture evenly over the berries. Place plates under the broiler until sabayon is lightly browned, or use a blowtorch to brown them as you would for a Crème Brulee. Garnish with fresh mint sprigs.

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Warm Blueberry Pie with Almond Crumb Topping

I was walking by the market the other day and saw blueberries at 2 half pints for $5.00 and I thought of this great pie recipe I usually make in the summer during blueberry season. So I thought it would be great to bring a little summer into January and share this recipe with you. 

This pie is really the best of both worlds – it’s a blueberry crisp or crumble in a pie shell. It’s quick, easy, and delicious!! I wouldn’t substitute frozen blueberries in this recipe because the texture will be completely different. The beauty of this pie is that the blueberries don’t become that teeth and denture-staining mush that is usually served as Blueberry Pie. You could just as easily omit the pastry and bake it in a baking dish as a crisp. And you could substitute other berries or fruit, or use a different crisp or a crumble topping if you have one that you prefer.

 

 

 

For the pastry shell you can use a slightly sweetened shell if you want but I don’t think it’s necessary. Just add about 2 Tbsp. sugar per pie shell. You can reduce the liquid in the pie shell also to have a more tender crust since the filling of this pie isnt very loose. Use about 2 ozs. liquid (based on 10 ozs. flour) instead of 3ozs. - so that would be 1 egg, or 1 oz. egg + 1 oz. water (remember our hydration formula – this would be a 20% hydration dough).

You could also increase the fat if you want a richer dough. Remember what I said about fat ratios – you can go as high as you dare up to 100 % of the flour weight (and probably higher – but I’ve never tried that). In Pro lingo we also say that this would be a ”shorter” dough, as in shortbread. Fat shortens the strands of gluten that make a tougher, more durable crust, so the more fat you have the more tender the crust. But please remember this is food and your body needs to be nourished, not sent into shock trying to digest all that fat!

Warm Blueberry Pie with Almond Crumb Topping: 

 

1 9” Pastry Shell from my recent blog on unsweetened pie dough

 

Filling:

¼ cup AP Flour

2 Tbsp. Cornstarch

2 Tbsp. Brown Sugar

2 Tbsp. Granulated Sugar

pinch Ground Cinnamon

pinch Ground Nutmeg

1 pint Fresh Blueberries

Juice of 1/2 Lemon

 

Topping:

2 Tbsp. AP Flour

2 Tbsp. Brown Sugar

1 Tbsp Granulated Sugar

pinch Ground Nutmeg

1 oz. Butter, unsalted, softened

2 Tbsp. Rolled Oats

¼ cup Almonds, sliced, blanched  

 

Method:

 

Oven at 350F.

 

1. Pre-bake pastry shell as follows: Prick bottom of shell with a fork all over, Cover with foil, or baking parchment, add pie weights (or any dried beans), and bake for about 20 minutes, then carefully remove foil and weights and bake an additional 5 – 10 minutes until lightly browned. Set aside to cool slightly.

 

2. While the pie shell is baking, make the filling as follows: In a small bowl combine dry ingredients. Add the blueberries and the lemon juice and toss gently. Set aside.

 

3. For the topping: Combine all ingredients and set aside.

 

4. To assemble and bake: Pour the blueberry filling into the baked pie shell, sprinkle loosely with the topping. Bake for 25-35 minutes until the topping has attained a nice color. Serve while still warm, accompanied by ice cream or whipped cream.

 

 

 

 

I hope you enjoy the pie – Please comment or send questions and/or suggestions…

   

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Pie Dough (Unsweetened) – Pate Brisee

You can use this recipe whichever way you feel most comfortable.

Look how much easier it is to remember the recipe by heart when you use the ratio amounts based on the weight measurements  rather than trying to remember the exact volume amounts.

To me the percentage approach is even easier to remember, and it makes it a bit simpler to think about substituting ingredients as you like to suit your taste and your imagination.  Don’t worry that the percentages don’t add up to 100 %. The fat and liquid percentages are based on the flour weight, ie the 5 ozs. butter =50% of 10 ozs. flour, and the 3 ozs. liquid (1 egg=2 ozs. +1 oz. water) = 30% of 10 ozs. flour. In Professional lingo this would be called a dough with 30% hydration, and  a 50% fat ratio.

 If you want more information on dough hydration see my notes after the recipe below.

So, to paraphrase the famous slogan, JUST (get in the kitchen and) DO IT!!Take my word – you’ll be glad you did. 

Yield = Two 9” Pie Shells = 18 ozs. Dough = 1 oz Dough per 1” Size of Pie Pan 

Volume                   Weight                                                                   %                      Volume

Measure                Measure                Ingredients                          Ratio                      Ratio             

 2Cups                   10ozs.                   Flour, All  Purpose                ——–                    1Part

                                                               plus pinch of Salt                                                                   

1 Stick +                 5 ozs.                   Butter, or Shortening              50%                  ½ Part

2 Tbsp.                                                   Or a Combination                  of Flour                                    

1 each                     2 ozs.                     Egg, Extra Large                   30%                     1/3 Part

2 Tbsp.                   1 oz.                        Water or Milk                       of Flour                                   

 

The method for this dough is explained in the video, so please watch that.
We will go over baking the shell and what to use it for in the next post.

So have your dough ready in the freezer for then!!

You can change the % ratios easily. If you like a richer dough – use 60,  70, or even 80% butter (that glorious French favorite Puff Pastry is about 100% fat to flour ratio – but nobody makes that at home – or even in most restaurants – anymore because it takes forever and the store-bought frozen version is a good substitute. I can’t say that for the store-bought frozen pie crusts which I find to have no flavor and a dry texture. And besides it’s so easy to make them at home and freeze for future use).

If you want a stronger dough increase the hydration so you have more liquid to bind with the flour. You can try different amounts and see what you prefer best, or what works best for a given type of pie. If you have a more liquid filling then you may want a slighter stronger dough. The name of this dough in French (Pate Brisee, pronounced “pat bree-zay”) means “Broken Pastry” which most likely refers to the fact that it is a bit fragile once baked.

You can add some sugar to this recipe if you want to sweeten it.  A traditional Sweet dough (Pate Sable Sucree) for a fruit tart has about 25% hydration (usually in the form of just egg) and about 60% fat (usually only butter), and it is sweetened with about 20% sugar (as always, based on the flour). So for the recipe above you would add 2 ozs. sugar which is about 1/4 cup. The name of this dough in French (Pate Sucree -pronounced “pat soo-cray”) means “Sandy Pastry” and refers to the texture resembling sand when baked – think of a sand-cookie or a shortbread.

 

 

 

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Basic Sponge Cake Recipe

It can be so easy to remember a recipe when you are aware of the ratio of the ingredients to each other.

This Sponge Cake recipe is the one that opened my eyes as to how you can (and should) simplify a recipe to make it easier to remember. More importantly, in doing so I think it takes some of the fear away from trying to make a seemingly complicated dish.

This recipe has many variations and uses. The same formula can be used as a plain but delicious Vanilla Sponge Cake, the cake for a Jelly Roll, the cake for a Christmas Yule Log, a Chocolate Sponge Cake, etc.

Here’s what you need to remember:

For One 8” Cake or One Cookie Sheet

6 Eggs, Extra Large

6 ozs. Sugar

6 ozs. Butter, unsalted

6 ozs. Flour

That’s the basic recipe.

You can memorize that easily, and the only thing you need to remember besides that is to add a pinch of salt, and a teaspoon of pure vanilla extract. If you are making a chocolate sponge just add 2 heaping Tbsps. of cocoa powder.

The recipe that I illustrate below is the Chocolate Sponge Roll which I will be using to make my Yule Logs on Tuesday. 

OK so besides the formula you obviously need instructions on how to make the cake. If you are like me then you can remember techniques quite easily. I’m fine on my own once I have made something after having been shown how to do it properly.

One way to simplify communication in baking is by categorizing each type of cake based on the method of preparation.

This cake is made using the Sponge Method. So once you have made this cake you will have mastered one of the major cake methods!

1.    Preheat oven to 350 F.

2.   Warm the eggs, sugar, and vanilla in your mixing bowl. Do this by immersing the bowl in hot water but be careful not to let the eggs cook at all – you just need to bring them to about 110 degrees which should just feel warm to the touch. Warming the eggs increases the amount of air that you can whip into them.

114-1461_img-small.jpg

3.   Melt the butter in a saucepan.

4.   Sift the flour and salt together (with the cocoa powder if using).

114-1465_img-small.jpg 

5.   Whip the eggs at high speed about 5 minutes – you cant over-whip them because they will reach a certain height in the bowl and then they wont go any higher.

114-1464_img-small.jpg

6.   Remove the whisk from the bowl and, using a rubber spatula, fold in one third of the butter, and one third of the flour. When adding the flour try to add it slowly so that it forms an even layer on the surface before you begin your folding.

114-1467_img-small.jpg

Repeat until all the butter and flour are incorporated. Don’t over mix; it’s OK if there are small lumps of flour in the batter.

114-1468_img-small.jpg

7.    Pour the batter into your cake pan or cookie sheet (buttered and sugared). Spread batter evenly in pan.

 114-1469_img-small.jpg

Bake about 30 minutes for an 8” cake, or about 10 minutes for a sponge roll. Either way a toothpick or knife inserted into the cake at the center should come out clean.

8.   Turn cake out onto a cooling rack and cool to room temperature. 

114-1470_img-small.jpg

 

 

 

I hope that the way that I have presented this recipe will take the fear out of trying it. Please send me feedback as to how it could be simpler, or if more explanation is needed in any area.Let me know if you tried it and it worked out well, or if you had any problems. 

 

 

Remember:

Cooking should be One Part Knowledge and Two Parts Fun!

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