Category Archives: Side Dishes

Wild Mushroom Ragout

Wild Mushroom Ragout at Cafe du Soleil

Wild Mushroom Ragout at Cafe du Soleil

Today’s post continues the series of dishes from my restaurant Cafe du Soleil photographed by Philippe Touitou.
He does an excellent job of making my food look even better than in real life!
The wild mushroom ragout doesn’t have much of a recipe to follow - since it’s really just sauteed mushrooms with chopped garlic, shallots, and herbs. But I’ll give you some guidelines to follow to create a successful dish, or “un plat bien reussi” as the French say.
To begin with, let’s start at the highest level. Call your local mycologist and see if they will take you foraging with them.
Here are a couple links:
There really is nothing to compare with cooking mushrooms that you have picked yourself. I highly recommmend it but let me say this first: Unless you consider yourself to be an expert, or are with an expert, or just have a death wish, DO NOT TRY THIS ON YOUR OWN!!
Imagine coming home with a nice harvest of your own……..
Okay so thats probably not gonna happen too often, right?
So next best would be to buy some wild mushrooms at your local gourmet market. Two problems with this: they are usually VERY expensive and they usually arent all that fresh, and (okay that’s three problems) it’s hard to tell cultivated “wild”mushrooms from real ones. So, what to do? Well, buy a few of the wild mushrooms and mix them with less expensive cultivated mushrooms such as Portobellos, Oyster mushrooms, and Shiitakes.
Actually, your local Farmer’s Market might have some wild mushrooms so try checking there too. And I have seen some high-end cultivated mushrooms there.
Once you have your mushrooms, you must confront the eternal mushroom question.
Wash or don’t wash?
I’m not going to add fuel to that debate - I usually dont wash mushrooms. Here’s a blog post about washing mushrooms if you want more info:
Most important when cooking your mushrooms is to get your pan really hot! That way the water in the mushrooms basically evaporates as it comes out of the mushrooms. Some mushrooms have more water than others though, so some experimenting will be needed. So once your pan is super hot, add your oil.
I usually saute mushrooms in vegetable oil. And you usually need more oil than you think.
Toss the mushrooms in the pan occasionally, allow them to brown nicely. When they are almost done, add some chopped garlic and shallots, then season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Just before serving add a splash of white wine and a knob of butter, then a little choppped parsley and you’re ready to go.

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Filed under Appetizers, Mushrooms, Side Dishes, Thanksgiving Recipes

Tomate Montrachet

 

With this post I am beginning a series of recipes for dishes that I serve at Cafe du Soleil. The beautiful photos are done by Phillippe Touitou. Some of these photos can also be found on our website www.cafedusoleilnyc.com so please check that out if you want to see more food pictures. I will be providing recipes for those dishes in the upcoming months. Some of these will be ratio recipes, or have ratio elements to them, but mostly I am featuring them to give you a better idea of how we present the dishes at the restaurant.

 

Today’s recipe is quite simple to make. It’s one of our most popular appetizers at Cafe du Soleil - if you’re in the New York area please come by and try it.  The name of the dish refers to the use of French Montrachet goat cheese but any soft goat cheese log will do. You can even use a flavored log but that will change the dish a bit. You can use many types of tomatoes – beefsteak, heirloom, etc. as long as they are fully ripe and ready to eat. I wouldn’t suggest plum tomatoes as they are not juicy enough. This dish does get baked a little, but it’s mostly to warm the tomato through not really to bake it.

 

Tomate Montrachetserves 4 as an appetizer

4                        Vine Ripe Tomatoes

8 ozs.                Montrachet Goat Cheese (or other fresh goat cheese)

1/2 cup             Basil Pesto

2 T                    Chive Oil (see recipe in blog post from June 18, 2008)

Tomato Vinaigrette:

1/4 cup             Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1/2 cup             Shallots, peeled and choppped

1/2 cup             Imported White Wine Vinegar

1 28 oz. can      Whole Plum Tomatoes, peeled, in juice

Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper to taste

 

Method:

Preheat oven to 350F.

Vinaigrette:

Saute shallots in olive oil until soft, add white wine vinegar and cook about 15 minutes until reduced by half. Add tomatoes and their juice and simmmer about 30 – 40 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Puree in blender or with hand blender until smooth. Adjust seasoning (you can add more vinegar if you like a sharper vinaigrette). Set aside in a warm place until ready to serve.

Tomatoes:

Slice each tomato into 3 even slices. Set the top of each tomato aside and lay the remaining slices out on worktable. Spread about 1 T of basil pesto on each slice. Cut the goat cheese into 8 even slices and flatten each slice to the same size as the tomato slice. Place one disc of goat cheese on each tomato slice, season with salt and pepper, then reconstruct each tomato finishing each with the top slice.

Baking and Assembly:

Place tomatoes on a lightly oiled baking sheet and bak in oven about 10 minutes until warmed through. When ready to serve place a couple spoonfuls of tomato vinaigrette on each plate, place a tometo on each plate, and decorate the egde of the plate with chive oil, or you could use some pesto thinned with a little olive oil. You can also decorate the plate with a few leaves of baby salad greens. Just remember that the star of this plate is the tomato so dont overpower it with greens.

Enjoy!!

As always please send comments or feedback so I know how you are enjoying these recipes.

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Filed under Appetizers, Side Dishes